Adam Ondra #58: No Fear – Belaying


59 comments

  1. anyone else notice that radek said that the biggest problem was not controlling the brake rope when his hand was completely off it and then continued to slide his hand on it basically releasing the brake strand repeatedly?

  2. As little as I know about climbing, I would say that once you start falling, you hope the guy holding the rope will Belay without Delay.

  3. How to protect your country from a pandemic: host the Olympics ! Just wait until afterwards, suddenly Japan will announce drastic measures.

  4. And yet Radek pays out slack with the rope hand much too high at 2:41 – a(n auto)tuber cannot grip at this position, the ropehand must always stay BELOW THE DEVICE.

  5. Not nearly enough detail. This isnt really helpful to teach beginners how to give good catches.

     If this was supposed to be a way to "tame fear" from climbing and falling, then this should be about how to give the sweetest catches. I think only 50% of climbers know that their belayer is going to give them a great catch every time. The bad belayers just dont understand the basic principles behind the mechanics of a Hard-catch vs a Soft-catch.

    Mani the Monkey explains it well, but also fails to demonstrate clearly why/how falling is controlled at the point where the rope initiates, and changes the direction of fall towards the protection you are last clipped into. At the point of initiation, the belayer's options are either to add force, remain a neutral force, or reduce force on the falling climber. If you jump as the rope begins to pull you up off the ground, then you will significantly reduce the effect of the direction change, i.e. the falling climber getting spiked back into the wall. Misjudging the jump COULD actually add force to the fall and make things much worse. If the belayer instinctively sits back on the rope at the moment the rope comes tight, more force would be added than if they had just stood there relaxed.

    So your options are, sit there, dynamically sit down or "take", or "go with" the pull of the rope. Based on the weight differential and fall distance, you judge whether to do just a little by walking into and up the wall (like Mani's video shows well), or minimize the force as much as you can by jumping as high as you can muster at that perfect moment.

    Most of the time, you want minimal slack, and a soft-catch. Most people misconstrue more slack out as a soft-catch, but in reality, it just increases the forces and the fall distance.

  6. At 2:32, do as he says, NOT as he does!
    Also that fall in Flatanger is scary AF.

    Epic video, maybe Adam's most important so far!

  7. When I started climbing the belay aids didn’t exist, unless you counted the figure-8. Around the waist. Talk about trust.

  8. I have got a terrible belayer who says that he needs not belay me, for I do not fall. But I have been an even worse belayer – my friend fell to the ground from the first bolt with the quickdraw clipped, because I did not bother taking the rope after he clipped it. So basically, as regarding climbing, I am screwed.

  9. When you're doing multiple pitches, and one of the climbers ascended one pitch. Does he then belay the other climber from the top of the pitch? I don't understand yet 🙂

  10. Aaaaaand at 5:05 Adam's personally grabbed gri-gri and successfully blocked it furthermore the bottom end of the rope was uncontrolled too =) Thanks for nice belaying, thank you all)))

  11. That's why I love Adam, he is humble and always gives credit to everyone around him.
    Stay that way Adam, that's what makes you so special and so sympathic 🙂

  12. I think the worst situation is when you are climbing at your maximum, when you are not confident and at this moment, when you look at the bottom, you see your belayer that is not looking at you.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *