Winterizing your Motor Coach

Summer goes by way too fast, don’t they?
Winter will be here before you know it. Before it hits 32 degrees you’re going to need
to winterize. There are a few way to go about this, so to show you how to winterize, our
special guest, get excited, you ready, here he comes, OLD MAN WINTER!
(Cymbal crash) I’m not coming out there.
I said, OLD MAN WINTER What is this? This is not old man winter,
I said get an old man winter costume. I said Tom, get an old man winter costume. First of all, Stop saying old man winter.
Second of all, you gave me two hours to get this done and all they had was ice princess
costumes left. And I am not wearing this wig. Works for me Start with a half full fresh water tank. Use
the fresh water to help flush the black and grey tanks…. Make sure they are about 1/3
full This is a great time to pour some tank cleaner
in… And drive a few miles to work it around… Now you’re ready to drain the holding tanks…
just like when you’re dumping the tanks… empty the black first… then gray.
Second…completely drain the fresh water tank. You want tanks to be empty so nothing
freezes in the valves or in the tanks. There will still be a little H20 in that freshwater
tanks… and there is where you have options on what to do next.
If you can get your hands on an air compressor, you can blow the lines out. You need a ¾
inch hose connecter and an air chuck. First thing you need to do is open all the faucets
including the toilet and the shower head sprayer. Open any other water lines that are closed.
With an adapter, connect the air compressor to the city water connection.
This is important… to avoid any damage….Do not exceed 55 psi.
If your coach has a water filter, take it off and and drain it. Replace it with this
diverter tube. What happens here is the antifreeze will bypass in the water line and not make
its way into the filter assembly. 5. Turn on the water pump and allow it to
run to clear all water from lines. Turn off the water pump.
6. Open all low point and water tank drains. (These are the drains for the water tank and
the water lines. They are in theory located at the lowest point in the plumbing system
so all water will run out and not be trapped in the lines.)
What we need to do now is pour some rv antifreeze down the drains.
How do you talk me into this stuff. Oh, its not me, it says right here in the
manual, tom needs to wear a dress to winterize. It doesn’t say that in the manual, you wrote
that on a post it note. 7. Drain your water heater… but MAKE SURE
located near the bottom of the water heater. 8. Now, turn on the air compressor and Blow
out the water lines. Again, it’s important you do not exceed 55 P.S.I.
Once that’s done. Pour RV 2 cups or so of antifreeze in the drains, p-traps, and water
tanks. If you do not have an air compressor there
are a few other options. Find your water pump and remove the inlet
house…that would be the line with the strainer. Take the line off and attach a hose and run
it into the gallon of RV antifreeze. This way keeps the anti-freeze out of the fresh
water tank. You also want to bypass your water heater. Close the top and bottom valve…open
the one in the middle. Turn the water pump switch on….. Open the
faucets…. Once you get the pink flowing you’re good there. Move on to the next one.
Both hot and cold in the bathroom. Hold down the flusher on the toilet.
Don’t forget the outdoor shower. The final method is the wet method. Word of
warning here… doing this means RV antifreeze in your fresh water tank… and your fresh
water may never taste the same again. So here we go.
After you have completely drained all the tanks, pour 4-6 gallons of RV antifreeze into
the fresh water tank. Turn on the water pump get it flowing. Open the furthest faucet or
water valve from the pump and work your way through the entire system.
Turn on one at a time until you see the pink is flowing. You want to have about 2 cups
of antifreeze flow before you turn off the faucet.
Do all the water lines… showers and tubs, toilet, washing machines, dishwashers, ice
makers and outside showers. Leave the antifreeze in the sink, washer and
shower p-traps and toilets during storage to protect those lines. Finally all faucets
half way to take pressure off the valve seats during storage. Wipe all fixtures clean and
you’re done with that part. While you’re wiping down the fixtures, wipe
down the countertops and tables. Clean the fridge and Leave both doors open.
A box of baking soda wouldn’t be a bad idea. It’s also a good time to close all curtains
and blinds. A little trick to keep the curtains from fading is to put some foil or paper between
the windows and the curtains. Give the AC one more run so the compressor
seal is lubricated. Moving outside.
Clean and wax your coach. Oil locks and hinges.
Seal roof trim. While you’re up here, you can cover the vents and ac units to keep critters
from making a winter home. If you get a heavy snow, you’re going to need to remove it
from the roof. Block up your coach with wooden blocks or
manufactured jack stands on a hard level surface. Partially deflate the tires and cover them.
If possible, remove batteries and store them in a cool dry place. Check them once in a
while and charge them if you need to. Store with the fuel tank full to prevent condensation
buildup. It’s not a bad idea to start her up once
a month and have a walk through to check for leaks or condensation. While you’re doing
that, keep the door open, maybe open a window or two and air it out.
Now all you have to do, is wait for winter to end, and you’ll be ready to hit the road.
You Realize this isn’t even my color Tom, Let It Go

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